Rock the Pistes is a pop/rock festival in the French-Swiss Portes du Soleil ski resort. For a whole week, spectators can enjoy live concerts by international artists right on the ski slopes, in the middle of the mountain.

This year the festival runs from 12th to 18th March. The program is quite impressive:

12/03 Morzine-Les Gets – Martin Solveig
13/03 Morzine-Les Gets – Suzane
14/03 Châtel – MØME
15/03 Montriond-Les Lindarets-Domaine skiable Avoriaz – Klingande
17/03 Châtel – Eagle Eye Cherry
18/03 Morgins – La P’tite Fumée
18/03 Morgins – Étienne De Crécy

Concerts happen during the day on ephemeral stages all over the ski area and are only accessible by skiing. There are also after-ski concerts in the afternoon, for a total of 35 live concerts during the week.

This unique festival is accessible with a Ski Concert Pass (Portes du Soleil ski pass), which is available at all the ski lifts of the 12 Portes du Soleil resorts.

In short, Rock the Piste festival is: 5 major artists in concerts on the slopes at 1:30 pm (warm-up DJ sets at 12:45 pm) + 30 après-ski concerts in the heart of the resorts with emerging artists from the international scene. A truly sensational event not to be missed!

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As explained in this article by Chamonix All Year, skiing the Vallée Blanche is an incredible, high-altitude off-piste experience. This route descends from the top of the Aiguille du Midi, at 3,842m altitude, down to Chamonix, 2,800m below. It is most famous for its spectacular glaciated terrain. As such, you need a minimum of knowledge of alpinism and the local environment, and you must be well-equipped.

Access for Skiing Vallée Blanche

Historically, the best conditions to take on this route are from January to May depending on the snow cover. To access the starting point at 3,842m you must take two cable cars from the centre of Chamonix to the top of the Aiguille Du Midi.

The cable cars are included on your Chamonix ski pass if you have the full area Mont Blanc Unlimited pass. In high season you can also reserve a cable car in advance at a time to suit your itinerary – usually one of the first few for a full day and fresh lines!

Initiation: the Arête

The ridge that connects the Aiguille du Midi to the Vallée Blanche is a test of nerve ahead of meeting the departure point for your day’s adventures. Consider it your initiation for an adrenaline-packed day!

Not for those with a fear of heights, there is a 150m hike across a ridge line that takes you to a wide platform, which opens directly to the Vallée Blanche.

You can put your vertigo at ease as, once the snow base builds up, you will be faced with a rope to hold onto and a groomed / maintained path about 1m wide (not necessarily level). Crampons are therefore often recommended by your guide, to whom you may be attached as an added security.

Once you reach the natural platform simply strap on your snowboard, or step into your skis. Don’t forget the time for a quick photo! You are surrounded by the breathtaking peaks of the Chaine du Mont Blanc, now closer than ever.

In good company: your guide

The Vallée Blanche is an off-piste, unmarked route which takes place on a glaciated high-mountain terrain. Supervision by a qualified high mountain guide is the safest way to fully enjoy the snow and views. From experience, your guide will choose the best route for your level and share their knowledge and history of the surrounding mountains.

Public groups are limited to a maximum of eight people, allowing the guide to provide personalised advice and ensure optimal progression. You will also be grouped together, either with other skiers or snowboarders, so that you can take the optimum route for each style.

Alternatively, you can hire a private guide. This is ideal if you want to try an alternate route, mix skiers and snowboarders, or create a special itinerary to make your ski dreams come true!

Skiing & snowboarding: your level

Skiing the Vallée Blanche should not be your first foray into off-piste skiing, but you don’t have to be an expert either. There is something for all to enjoy as long as you can turn accurately and stop at will in unpredictable off-piste conditions.

You will also need a decent level of both cardio fitness and ski fitness. Not only is there roughly 25km of variable skiing conditions, there’s either lengthy stairs or a hefty hike out towards the end.

It is said that the technical difficulty of the Vallée Blanche (Classique) is similar to that of a red piste. Much like any popular piste in good conditions, there is the potential for moguls to develop. Moguls may slow the rhythm of snowboarders in particular, however skiers should also know how to navigate them with ease.

Snowboarders must also be wary of long flat traverses that may require poles. Meanwhile, skiers must know how to control their speed, side-slip confidently, and make parallel turns.

The way down: skiing Vallée Blanche routes

1. The Classique. This is the easiest route technically and the most “tracked” or travelled line. It follows the slower route in the heart of the great labyrinth of glaciers: the glacier du Géant, the Tacul glacier and the Mer de Glace. Making your way across the arête, and the sometimes delicate passage of seracs before joining the Mer de Glace, constitute the main technical difficulties.
2. The “True / Vrai Vallée Blanche”. This historic route is located between the Vallée Blanche Classique and Envers and offers a course in the heart of ice formations. This is a beautiful route famous for spectacular turquoise ice structures and small seracs. It requires a good level of skiing due to its constant proximity to crevasses.
3. The Petit Envers. A nice alternative to the classic Vallée Blanche, penetrating between the “True Vallée Blanche” and the Envers du Plan glacier. This itinerary is a wonderful option for skiers who want to graduate from the True Vallée Blanche, without being too technical.
4. The Grand Envers. Want to ski steep slopes reserved for very good skiers? This is the route for you. With slopes at 45° and the reputation for being the most beautiful (and difficult) route of the valley. Take off directly from the arête onto the Envers du Plan glacier. This route is technically demanding with a mix of slopes and passages between large seracs.

The final stretch: Montenvers train vs Buvette des Mottets

When the Vallée Blanche is coming to an end your guide will decide between two finishes, based on conditions.

1. Either hike out of the Vallée Blanche to join the ski piste that will take you back to Chamonix,
2. Or climb the steps to join the Montenvers train which will take back to Chamonix town centre.

If in late spring, you can’t ski back down to Chamonix due to snow conditions and you will have to take the train. You might also choose the Montenvers train for its history and views. But remember you’ll still need to take on roughly 400+ steps to reach the cable car, which will link you to the train station.

Alternatively, should there be plenty of snow, after fifteen minutes of steep tiresome hiking you will reach the Buvette des Mottets at 1,638m. Formerly on the edge of the glacier, it is now over a hundred metres away. The hike joining the two skiing sections is increasing each year, as the Mer de Glace retreats.

Once you reach the top you can stop for a drink or picnic with breathtaking views on the west side of the Aiguille des Drus. Then, head down a fun (boardercross-like) forest trail descent back to Chamonix!

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When the Kandahar happens, it’s our tradition to join the crowds and cheer all athletes. So, that’s exactly what we did last week during the races on February 3rd and 4th. What a great way to celebrate this discipline we love!

Here’s a bit of history about the Kandahar, as explained on seechamonix.com.

The Kandahar race is one of the main sporting events in the Chamonix valley and it showcases Chamonix’s excellent skiing reputation. Created in 1928, the Kandahar was the first international alpine competition to combine downhill and slalom events. It plays host to the slalom and giant slalom, which are both spectacular disciplines to watch.

The race takes place on La Verte piste in Les Houches at the beginning of the year. Extensive work has been carried out on the lower part of the course over the past few years, in order to enlarge the arrival area and widen parts of the piste. These amendments mean that Chamonix will now be able to host world cup slalom events, too. 

The reputation of the Kandahar has attracted many of the big downhill competitors over the years. These include: James Couttet, Karl Schranz, Emile Allais, Ingemar Stenmark, André Aamodt, Alberto Tomba, and Bode Miller!

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Today, we have decided to check the best après ski spots in Europe according to Condé Nast travel. We are happy to say we’ve got most of them covered, even this winter season!

Verbier

For: a high low mix of international glamour and beer-soaked live gigs.

Everyone knows the après is on par with the first-class skiing in Verbier. The Swiss resort has a ski-hard play-hard mentality that sees early risers maximise slope time before piling into a long lunch, which invariably rolls onto a rosé-fuelled afternoon at Bar Le Rouge. If pounding tables in ski boots to live music is on the cards, head to Le Mouton Noir, Le Farinet for its live music and retractable, fair weather roof, and seasonaire hotspot pub Montfort. Where you choose to après, it’s Verbier tradition to visit a hole-in-the-wall bakery en route home, soaking up the rosé with a pain au chocolat.

Chamonix

For: a metropolitan take on the mountains

This French resort’s après scene is as vast and varied as its terrain. Except for La Folie Douce on the lower green Brevent piste, après mostly takes place back in town or at the foot of the lifts. Skiers energised after a full day on the slopes spill onto Marmottons’ terrace for panachés and Indie performers. At the north end of town, Chambre Neuf is the classic, where cool beer, bro-beanies and live music coalesce in sticky, sweaty rapture. Just opposite, ski guides and real-deal mountaineers debrief the day’s adventures at Elevation 1904, which swiftly loosens up into bar mode.

St Anton

For: A boot-stomping belter of a party

With over 305 km of varied piste to carve and conquer, St Anton is a hard-and-fast snowglobe of fun for skiers. Krazy Kangaruh is St Anton’s après original where Schnitzels, beer and table dancing convene for a party that kicks off around 11am. Fellow mountain party cabin, MooseWirt, pumps out the Euro tunes for ski boots pounding the tables under a giant disco ball. Basecamp collects those unwilling to go home and get changed. Bodo’s is the spot for a clipped cow-bell spin on karaoke and cocktail-fuelled dancing.

Val Thorens

For: mountain cabaret and subterranean clubbing

As the highest resort in les Trois Vallées, Val Thorens’ snow cover is as sensational as its après. La Folie Douce enjoys a near-sacred status in this resort, despite its spin on the Val d’Isere original, where performers lift the terrace onto tables from their chalet balcony stage. The Brits descend on the Frog and Roastbeef for happy hour and pub grub, or join the locals at Rhum Box for an unbuttoned après. For full-throttle clubbing, Malaysia is the Alps’ biggest club, with world-famous DJs oiling the crowds until the early hours.

Livigno

For: city-grade nightlife without the VIP nonsense

High-altitude Livigno offers some of Europe’s best skiing. From a sleepy, Lombardy village in the 1950s, the resort now offers a cornucopia of post-ski frolicking. Yes, there’s the salopetted-and-booted après at Alegra with its crowd-pleasing tunes, or the circus-themed Statlet, both at the bottom of the black Carosello run. But Italians do things a little differently. Rather than a beer-soaked après, they break up a day’s skiing with a long lunch or a red wine and chicchetti pit stop, then a shower, snooze and suddenly it’s aperitivo hour. At precisely this time, Milky’s Aperitivo Bar switches on the charm with Bombardinos or Aperol spritz, while Tagliede après ski is more about the relaxed pizza and Peroni.

Val d’Isere

For: the original, hardcore après

Val d’Isere’s après scene remains predominantly British and invariably wild. By 2pm, ski helmets are typically tucked over chairs at the original La Folie Douce, at the top of La Daille gondola, where a saxophonist loosens the crowd and cabaret dancers lure in diners from La Fruitiere and la Cucina. Just above the Olympic gondola, Cocorico’s heated terraces host a more home-spun style of show, with the tabletop dancing to live music and a short slide home that can barely be categorised as skiing. The party typically moves from the slopes to the foot of the runs around 4pm.

St Moritz

For: how the other half après

St Moritz is essentially one chic century-long party laced in curious traditions and star-studded lore. Most tales emerging from years of refined revelry lead back to Badrutt’s Palace, St Moritz’s fairytale turreted hotel, which recently opened its own mountain club, Paradiso. Here, a mix of serious skiers and gondola-riding designer creatures sip Champagne to Euro hits. Sternbar Marguns has been around a little longer, with its sun trap terrace and famously louche bar 2,838 metres high. Schneebar Pirates on the Rocks is another less ritzy spot at Corviglia’s top station, whose live music and laid-back allure feel out of step with everything St Moritz stands for. Finaly, the Roo Bar at Hauser is a St Moritz classic, whose cellar dance floor mops up the après crowds who’ve made it home to change.

Kloster

For: the fireside drinks that just occasionally get spicy

Kloster’s après takes its cue from the resort’s clientele – discreet royals and old money eager to pelt down its 320km tangle of pistes for a Swiss hot chocolate or lunch at Wolf’s Den. Most après take place in the cosy, amber-lit Pellegrini Bar and the traditional chalet-style Alpina Bar by the station. A curious blend of traditional chalet and school disco, Casa Antica absorbs the revellers, with its pocket-sized dance floor and cosy booths.

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In this article on seevaldisere.com we found a few other interesting news about what’s coming to Val this winter.

On the slopes

Eco piste groomers
Val d’Isere are championing a more sustainable approach, so their 39 piste groomers will be powered by HVO fuel this winter. This fuel is 100% renewable using vegetable oil (no palm oil) and reduces their carbon emissions by 90%.  

In the resort

Speed-riding
Evolution 2 has invested in new specially designed tandem wings to offer tandem speed-riding half days. They also offer ice floating on Ouillette lake at an altitude of 2513 metres for a unique relaxing wellness boost.  

Treetop adventures
Val adventure has opened 4 different tree-top adventure courses for a great après-ski activity in the Rogoney forest. This course includes rope bridges, zip wires, nets, beams and walkways.

Hotels

First Club Med Exclusive Collection in the Alps! 
The Club Med in Val d’Isere is the first of the exclusive collections resorts to be located in the mountains. This completely redesigned resort is the epitome of luxury with 215 deluxe rooms and suites. The new decor reflects the village style using natural wood, stone and wool to provide authenticity.

Chalets

Hip Hideouts Chalets have 2 new chalets this winter. Situated in the village both chalets sleep 10. Chalet Cala, slopeside and Chalet Loup in Le Fornet. You can expect the same high quality modern hospitality concept in these chalets that Hip Hideout offer in their other serviced accommodation in the resort. 

Travel

Electric shuttle buses
Two new electric shuttle buses join the fleet of ValBuses this winter. The rest of the fleet of buses will this year change over to HVO biofuel. These changes represent a 90% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions. By 2025, 15 electric buses will run between the village and its hamlets.  

Restaurants

The Edelweiss, an established restaurant on the slopes, celebrates its 20th Anniversary this winter and is opening a second restaurant on the Mangard slope in Le Fornet, called Rene. This new adjoining restaurant pays tribute to a family member and is offering a completely different dining experience with an open kitchen, charcoal oven and a fully glazed dining room giving an incredible panoramic view across the valley.

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That’s why we were quite curious when discovering an article recently published by The Guardian, where a local shares his tips for a stay in Chamonix. It puts together a guide to Chamonix that’s both very accurate and personal, and we definitely agree with its suggestions.

Here are some highlights from the article.

Food

Cool Cats in the Rue de Moulins is best in the summer when you can sit outside. But as it does artisan hot dogs and street food such as nachos, it can also be good when you’re coming off the mountain in winter.

Le‑Cap‑Horn, in the same street, is a good option for sushi but a bit more expensive. Being able to get good sushi makes Chamonix a bit special for a mountain town.

Inspiration

The mountains here are unique but I think what makes Chamonix special is that they are so accessible from the valley. And because this is the birthplace of alpinism, when you’re in the mountains you’re either on a historic route or you can see one. I enjoy just being in the mountains with good friends and family, but in town, the Maison des Artistes, an artist’s residence dedicated to musical creativity, has a concert programme that changes all the time and can be quite unusual.

Neighbourhood

Chamonix is incredibly international: people from all over the world are brought together by the mountains. This part of the Arve valley is divided into three main towns: Argentière, Chamonix and Les Houches. I live in a hamlet called Les Bois, between Chamonix and Argentière. Closest to me is another hamlet called Les Praz, which has a nice bar, Le Petit Social, for coffee or après ski.

On the other side is Le Lavancher and a 30-minute walk from that hamlet is la Buvette du Chapeau. This is a mountain cafe with traditional food (cheese, charcuterie, chanterelle omelettes) and desserts such as fruit tarts and faisselle (local fromage blanc) with blueberry jam.

Nightlife

Chamonix is a busy mountain town with lots of tourists so the nightlife is good. But my preferred way of spending an evening is getting the cable car to Plan de l’Aiguille and watching the sunset from the Refuge du Plan de l’Aiguille, which is a 15-minute walk from the cable car.

You can have dinner and stay the night there, too, but in summer I like to take a picnic and camp up there. It is my favourite refuge in the whole Mont Blanc range and the mountains are pretty steep from there on, so if I stay the night, I know I can soon be up and doing something interesting the next morning!

Stay

Pointe Isabelle, in the centre of town, is a hotel, bar and bistro with 72 rooms. It sits on a corner, so it’s a good place for apéro and people watching.

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